Recipes
Quail Egg and Mushroom Risotto|Weston Table

Large Plates

Quail Egg and Mushroom Risotto

Risotto is legendary Northern Italian comfort food.  While some quibble with the need to stir the rice constantly, others learn to enjoy the quarter of an hour breathing the heavenly scent rising from the pot. With little more needed from the chef than a more or less constant swirl of a wooden spoon, the luxurious satisfaction of the hard, high starch content of Arborio or Carnaroli transforms the kernels into a silky, creamy plate with just the perfect al dente bite. While Italians eat risotto as a first course, Americans are happy doubling the portion size, creatively adding ingredients and serving as a main course. Around the holidays, guests will be impressed if their plate arrives with two or three tiny quail eggs (reminiscent of a partridge in a pear tree) that will cook to oozy perfection when swirled into the rice at the table. We pass bowls of quail eggs for guests to crack top as they see fit. The experience is fun and inclusive and just what gatherings at the table should be. Serve this steaming, rich plate with a salad of bitter greens and roasted pear. While easy enough for weeknight under thirty minute suppers, it also makes a fine, seasonally delicious celebratory dinner. This is a meal that will be remembered. 

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cuisine Italian
difficulty Moderate
season Year Round
serves 6

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 1/2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1.75 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
  • 4 ounces fresh mushrooms, medley preferred
  • 2 ounces wild mushrooms, seared separately in 1 tablespoon butter, optional
  • 1 tablespoon thyme, leaves only
  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 6 cups chicken stock, warmed
  • 1 1/2 cups grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
  • 1/2 cup flat leaf parsley, chopped
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 12 quail eggs, pass at the table

Directions

  1. Pour boiling water over the dried mushrooms, cover, and let sit for 15 minutes. Strain but do not throw out the liquid (strain it too).
  2. Add the olive oil to the bottom of a large heavy bottom pot set over medium heat.
  3. Add the mushrooms and the thyme to the pot, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the mushrooms are seared.
  4. Add the onions and cook until they are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more.
  5. Add the rice and cook for 4 minutes (until it starts to make a click clack sound on the bottom of the pot), stir constantly.
  6. Add the wine all at once, cook just until the wine has been absorbed but the rice is not dry. Begin ladling ½ cup of the stock into the pot, stirring constantly and allowing each addition of broth to be absorbed before adding the next ladle full of broth.
  7. Keep adding the stock until it is cooked (about 18 minutes), stir more or less constantly (more forgiving than most recipes lead to believe). After 15 minutes check to see if the rice is cooked--it should have a slight bite to it but not be tough. The risotto should still look a little soupy. If you have added all of the stock and the rice is still not cooked, or is not loose, add the mushroom water to achieve a thick but loose soup consistency.
  8. Add 1 cup of the grated parmesan (which will thicken the risotto further and you may need to add more mushroom water or water to loosen it).
  9. Remove from the heat and let stand 5 minutes. Incorporate the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, by folding rice on top of rice.
  10. Add the Parmesan, and stir. Taste for seasoning, add salt and pepper to taste.
  11. Spoon the risotto into bowls, sprinkle with parsley and optional seared mushroom garnish, and serve piping hot at the table.
  12. Pass the quail eggs to be cracked into the risotto at the table. Have guests stir the eggs in the bowls to cook them in the hot risotto.

Kitchen Notes

Carnaroli rice is forgiving and difficult to overcook, if you can find it, buy it. Any mushrooms will work. The dried mushrooms add a bit more depth of flavor, but all fresh may be substituted. A combination of shiitake and cremini mushrooms provide texture and visual interest. Any other types are simply a plus and may be sauteed separately and added just before serving to make the dish even fancier.

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